How Princess Diana’s style ruled the spring runways

With her instinctive flair for fashion, Diana, Princess of Wales evolved from a demure young woman with a penchant for romantic flounces and frills to a super-chic, confident global style icon who rocked the design world and made a dramatic impact with every outfit she wore. Her influence on the industry was extraordinary and now, as we approach the 20th anniversary of her death, the Diana look is back on trend. Indeed, this spring, fashion is having a “Diana moment” as the runways burst with designs reminiscent of the eternally glamorous princess.
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Style Mission
Then: Wearing a khaki jumpsuit as she climbed in a tank during a visit to the Royal Hampshire Regiment at Tidworth in 1988, daring Diana managed to make military gear look chic.
Now: This sassy olive-green number by Altuzarra is smart and chic enough to give other looks their marching orders.
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Green Goddess
Then: Diana’s love of emerald shone through in her glittering 1986 Catherine Walker gown, with its puff sleeves and daring split, worn at a première in 1990; and on a belt seen in 1988 in Bangkok.
Now: Mirroring the same vibrant green and a flash of well-honed pins – and a belt reflecting Diana’s – this dress by Les Copains takes the catwalk by storm. Meanwhile, shimmering puff sleeves are back in style at Saint Laurent.
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Lady in White
Then: In this button-down white cotton frock by Benny Ong, Diana kept her cool on a visit to Ayers Rock during a royal tour of Australia in 1983.
Now: Bold and sassy, Chloé raises the hemline and ups the ante with this shirt dress.
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High Shine
Then: In a sparkling backless silver lamé gown by Bruce Oldfield, Diana brought a touch of Dynasty-style glamour to the world première of the film Burke & Wills in Melbourne during her visit to the city in 1985.
Now: Fast-forward 32 years and French design house Isabel Marant lights up the runway with this shimmering space-age showstopper.
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Off the Cuff
Then: The doyenne of power dressing, Diana blazed a trail in this asymmetric white gown embroidered with translucent glass beads and crystals by Hachi, which was first seen in 1983 and was worn again in Washington, D.C., two years later.
Now: A flowing gown by Ralph Lauren, dressed down with a wide belt, gives the original look a modern twist.
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Sheer Romance
Then: Dubbed Shy Di in the early days, she favoured feminine frills – and in this romantic tulle gown by David and Elizabeth Emanuel, worn in 1983, she was the perfect People’s Princess.
Now: In a daring take on the traditional tulle ball gown, Dior adds a translucent skirt and a cream satin bustier.
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A Star in Stripes
Then: Sporting a Roland Klein blue and white silk blazer, Diana was first past the post at Royal Ascot in 1987 – she wore the jacket again the following year in Australia.
Now: This Roberto Cavalli blazer, with its added floral twist, brings the look bang up to date.
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